Reviewed by trys on August 19, 2019

As I recline in my office chair; heavily laden with my lunchtime decision, I ponder… ‘Did I make the right choice today’.

It’s a reasonably warm day, 19° to be precise - but there’s a deceivingly brisk wind in town. I leave the office and head towards the meal-based metropolis that is Brighton Clock Tower. There’s stalwarts Itsu, Leon and Pret within a stone’s throw, but I’m drawn to a lesser known establishment for an infamous takeaway dining experience: Kokuro’s Katsu Curry.

Taste

Straight out of the box, Kokuro have nailed it. We’ve got a bed of expertly cooked sticky rice - it’s clumping well and very well packed. Next up is an exceedingly generous portion of battered chicken. Exquisitely prepared and lovingly scissored into the dish. Finally, the katsu sauce adorns the aforementioned food stuffs with poise and grace. Put simply, it’s a taste tornado.

Presentation

The clear, granulated levels of rice, chicken, sauce are impressive - but there’s a downside. The lavishly generous portion of chicken acts as a rather too effective ‘sauce-shield’ for the rice. A mixing phase is required mid-meal. Yes, I did say mid-meal, because it’s simply impossible to do from the outset. Any attempt to lift the rice up early doors will result in an undesired and sticky overflow of katsu. Given difference circumstances, this could’ve been how Archimedes cried Eureka!

The vessel they choose to serve the dish in is masterful. The branded, circular container with a translucent lid provides just enough visibility to whet one’s appetite on the travel back to the office, but holds sufficient thermal properties to keep your lunch piping hot.

Value for Money

Do not be deceived into going for anything other than a small Katsu. At £5.95, you may feel that stretching the wallet to the next level up is a worthwhile investment. Stand firm, young padawan. A small is more than sufficient.

And this is my only gripe - this meal will leave you with a colossal food coma. Colossal. Such value comes at a heavy cost - on a surprisingly warm day, with an afternoon of work still in the balance, the Kokuro Katsu is a genuine risk. But in my mind, a risk absolutely worth taking.